Face it, we’re all going there. I’m about to hit 63.
Here are 5 things I’ve learned that have helped keep me in the water. Hopefully these can help you too.
GET IN SHAPE
First and foremost: Get in shape or at least better shape. If you can’t catch waves or stand up on them, you aren’t going to be surfing. It is amazing how easy it is to get out of shape AND how much longer it takes to get back into shape as age creeps up. Surfing requires a lot of different muscle groups as well as wave recognition skills.
Physically speaking, MY number ONE takeaway from the past 10 years is: consistent DAILY stretching, exercise and cross training activities are far superior to the random a couple of times a week power down workouts. The choice of what you do DAILY is relative to your physical situation and areas of need. Is a DAILY practice infallible, of course not. There will be slip-ups and injuries but your overall improved physical state will allow you to recover faster and get back in the water sooner.
Check out this link to a Surfline interview with Matt Griggs, a professional surf trainer from Australia. He has worked with former World Champion Mick Fanning and a host of other top echelon performers in the surf world.
As you probably already know, there are plenty of YouTube segments on stretching, strength training, flexibility, yoga, etc. The trick is to find some routine YOU can adapt to YOUR needs. Something that fits into YOUR life and that you can do on a DAILY basis.
Another way to improve your physical conditioning is to analyze your diet. See what fuel you are putting into that engine you call your body. If the fuel choices you make are an impediment to better health and physical conditioning, perhaps it would be time to consider some modifications. Take it slowly though. It is easier to make small changes over a longer period than drastic changes over a short interval. Cut back incrementally on the low quality fuel as you increase consumption of higher quality food. For example: Maybe have one vegetarian meal and one grilled fish meal per week to start. Instead of having ice cream every night, try substituting fresh fruit once or twice a week. Try to avoid making it a chore. Avoid “shoulding” all over yourself. Be happy to try something different. Convince yourself the choice is good tasting and good for you. Small steps can lead to big changes. You’ll see.
GO SURFING
Second: Go surfing! Make time to get in the ocean regularly, not only when it’s “perfect” but even on those marginal days. Make it a regular habit to go to the beach and get in the water (even if it’s only for half an hour). You’ll get to see all the faces of your local break and any others you visit. If there are no waves, go swim or bodyboard or paddleboard. By the way, prone paddleboarding is an excellent way to stay in paddle shape during flat spells. You’ll be shocked how many more waves you catch after paddleboarding regularly. Plus, you will be used to being in the ocean. That is a big plus when the surf pops up in size.
If the waves are really not appealing because of conditions, go for a walk along the beach. You’ll be amazed at how many interesting things you’ll see and how much better you’ll feel. Plus, you will be more in tune with the ocean and beach environment. That way, when the surf does “come up,” you will feel more comfortable too.
GET NEW EQUIPMENT
Third: Bust loose with some money and buy good equipment. Get a new more modern board, wetsuit, and boardshorts. It’s worth the investment if you really want to stay in the water. Whether you buy a new longboard, shortboard, fish, or fun board, it really doesn’t matter. The mere fact that it is new is exciting and opens up fresh possibilities. Just make sure to buy one that will float you based on your current physical conditoning. The stoke of visiting a local surf shop or contacting a local shaper will also help energize you to get in the water.
FILM STUDY
Fourth: Do some film study. Not of yourself, but of some professional level surfers. Click this link to go to our Surfing page. Once there, scroll down until you find the included video clips to view. It doesn’t matter if you plan to ride a longboard, shortboard, fun board, or a fish; simply watching professional level surfers perform is inspiring. You may not push the turns as hard or as fast as them, but you will be able to study their approaches, styles, and techniques which will lead to pushing yourself to improve.
Below is a 17 minute video summary of three top tier professional surfers competing in what is considered by many to be a “super heat.” They all demonstrate three key surfing elements of speed, power and flow.
Check it out.
A recommended vehicle for viewing high quality professional surfing is the World Surf League’s YouTube channel. It features videos from contests around the world. The comentators regularly discuss surfing techniques and the slow motion replays help viewers understand the nuances of each ride.
Eventually, you may want to watch some videos of yourself but make sure that the location you choose to film is a decent, longer peeling wave like a point or a reef. That way you will get a chance to see how you blend with maneuvers with speed, power and flow.
STAY POSITIVE
Finally: Stay positive. Some days everything will come together and you’ll own the break, catching every wave with a feeling of control and expertise. You’ll connect sections and carve cutbacks and stall for barrels. Other days, well…maybe not so much. But…hey…that’s life. Get over it. You are out there to have fun. So you kook out a few times, big deal. In the grand scheme of things, you are playing in Our Mother Ocean and living in the present moment. Check out the dolphins, whales, fish, pelicans, clouds, warm sun on your face, the smell of the sea…you are alive…now…and it’s beautiful. Cheers!