Windy Winter Walk
The Story of Laurie…by Laurie.
I was born and raised in Southern California and have always had an affinity for the beach and the coastal lifestyle that goes along with it. As a young girl, some of my fondest memories are of spending part of each summer break at my grandmother’s place on the Pacific Ocean in Laguna Beach every year.
Bipolar = Creativity?
Is there a connection between bipolar mental states and super creative individuals?
*super creative as evidenced in the visual, performing (including sports), linguistic (spoken & written), auditory/music arts…as well as mathematics, the sciences, technological and business innovators. Basically anyone whose gifts transcend the norm and help transform what is thought of as possible.
I was reflecting on Andy Irons and bipolar states of mind… For those of you unfamiliar with AI, as he is know in the surf world…which, by the way, many (if not most) long time surfers familiar with professional surfing will immediately recognize his initials as much as his name. That should be one major clue about how profound his impact on modern surfing was.
Anyway, here was a regular guy from Kauai, an outer island in the Hawaiian chain, who rose to the top of the professional surfing world not once but three times. Andy Irons didn’t make it just as a pure competitor but also as a tremendously gifted and fearless performance based athlete. His competitive successes were combined with relentlessly hard charging and creative “free” surfing which consistently raised the bar of what one was capable of accomplishing on a wave.
Check out this clip of him surfing Indonesia.
Go On a Surf Trip!
Does your surfing feel stagnant? Are you less than enthusiastic about paddling out at your local beachie? Well, there is one sure way to restoke that fire…GO ON A SURF TRIP!!!
Yeah, there’s always a reason not to go. Work, family, school, short on money, out of shape…or a combination of some or all of those reasons. Then there’s always the classic, “I’ll go someday.” Guess what, someday will never come unless you get off your butt and do something about it. It’s way too easy to stick with the comfortable…and then complain about it.
Just when you think…3 Examples.
Our “little” north San Diego beach community has been, and continues to be, impacted by development and progress. But just when I begin to think urbanization and tourism has inundated us, there’s a reminder, a moment of clarity if you will, that maybe…just maybe…the natural world still runs the show.
The white crow arrived.